Snowplay!

Oh, ULLR, Norse God of Snow,

Show mercy on wee Snow Bandits below Latitude 46; end our Powder Slump Peril!!

We are summoning our Snow Brethren from far and wide,

From the Northwest Hoodsmen, to the Heavenly Angels...

...the Desert Cat Riders, the Somber Sisters of Alta, and the Bad Boyz of Jackson…

Even Ole Ye Steamboat – Our Champagne Powder Faithful,

We are the Night Riders of the High Summits, with hopes and dreams of Glorious Powder Days ahead.

From our Gondola lots at ULLR Fest, we will ignite Bonfires and Blazes, humble before the Norse God of Snow!

Saddle Up Pardner because this Journey is BeeeyOoond Skiin' and Ridin'!

The Teton Mountain Range is young, compared to many mountain ranges of the World. With youth, breads physical prowess, unsteady, death defying peaks, and descents still untried. The quiet solace and cloud cover bring time for recharge. And, when the sun is shining, emerges a majestic, vibrant, luminous peak, still some parts left unrevealed to the shadows of the human eye. . .

Skiing and riding in the Teton Range can't be merely about the great gear you're pimpin nor your Super Tri-Mega/National Geographic quality photo lens. Being in the Tetons bolsters renewal, a chance to conquer or a time to discover. BUT, with so much AlrEaDy conquered and discovered, it can be a real challenge to be exotic these days. OVERWHELMING. I find the Tetons are as warming as they are daunting, and it's best to just come as you are, leaving any ego-trippin Super Cala Fragalistic impressionist tactics at home. After all, Tetons is just a French word for, well, boobs.

I always hear people complain that they think it's too hard to break into certain things, but when you're just exploring, it doesn't have to be that hard; it can be down right enjoyable. It's hard when you try to be an expert! A simple way of exploring could be to simply ask each person on your trip to contribute at least one of their personal ideas during your travels - a ski run they've never done, a Jackson Bad Boy they had hoped to meet (Good luck Ladies! , a journey to see what the Grand Teton actually looks like in real life. Whether a person sources the idea from a guide book, a local paper, or asking (coincidentally smart?) people around town, encourage sharing ideas, without judgement. It's easy to think of constraints -- so much to do or that dang bro Bra isn't going to think you are hot...hmm...wait, what? Focus on the things that fill up the happy cup, that enliven senses and soul - chances are you won't even remember the photo op of the TRAM nearly as much as you remember the experience you had in the Tram - so take photos of that, if this is what inspires.

Secondly, I encourage asking zainy questions of local people when you travel -- words or phrases you didn't understand (like, "what is the Jackson Hole Airforce" or "what is a face shot"). Just this morning, some strangers asked of me on the sidewalk, "Excuse me Miss, but what Kind of Tree is this?". I'll admit there was a split second where I had the self-conscious thought, what is it about my wardrobe, today, that suggests I might be a Lumberjack?...But, I was happy to answer the question, "Aspens! They are very cool and grow along the mountainside in bundles. You'll see them in photos everywhere around town." Indulge your curiosity and most locals will appreciate you more for seeking to learn about a place they undoubtedly love. And, when you take your happy demeanor from your travels to your daily life at home, you'll be remembering that vacation as the begining of a new, and completely overflowing happy cup. SnApS!

Ok, ok, you CAN shamelessly tout your Skiing Glory Story...NOW- you'll have earned it!

Jackson is a familiar backdrop to many Big Mountain skiing/snowboarding movies. My favorite flicks featuring Jackson, include:
-Unsensored Ski porn made by the local guys and girls next door. Poor Man's Riches made by Full Room Productions. http://www.fullroomproductions.com
-Each Fall, I love streaming the newest rev up your mojo skiing/riding flick released by Teton Gravity Research (TGR). http://www.tetongravity.com

Local Ski/Ride Instructors here are a unique, Sparta-like breed, with talk as smooth as a John Wayne one-liner. This particular instructor just finished skiing a steep ski run, in the dead of a chilly Winter night, balancing a fire blazing torch at both ends. He made the point to never forget your helmet.

Teton Pass - Backcountry

Teton Pass is one of the most populated backcountry locations. While Teton Pass can be utterly dreamy and delicious with deep powder, it can also be extremely dangerous. True low-angle slopes are sparse and terrain traps are abound on seemingly conservative exit routes. Unusual even for Jackson, most recent reports were rated High Avi Danger at All Elevations. Check yourself before you wreck yourself, or someone else.
Teton Avi Hotline is 307.733.2664.

Jackson Hole Resort

Unlike so many ski resorts, access to steep terrain doesn't "require" you to hike here. For the advanced skier/rider, you can hone your skills and condition in the steep terrain, all from a quickie chairlift. With the most vertical gain of any North American ski resort, this is the place for a cardio limit test, top-to-bottom ski/ride, uninterrupted by mid-mountain lifts -- see how far you can go without stopping for a breather!

Da...TRAM is a real get your knickers off to an experienced skier/rider. Indulge in some good ole fashioned, WhOa BrA...that was some GnArrrRRR, type feelin from here. However, if you plan to ski or ride this section - this ain't no place to blindly "follow the tracks". From the Tram, skiers/riders can access the infamous Corbet's Couloir, traverse across super sketch cliff bands, or could be heading out of bounds in pursuit of potentially deadly backcountry routes, for the unassuming. Plan your route ahead of time or go with a trusted local friend...and ensure you're caught up on that health insurance. The Tram is also open to site seers - just below the docking station is a cozy, quainte snack shack where you can nestle up to the fire, sip some coffee and have the convenience of nearby restrooms, all while overlooking the scenery. Take a few face shots of other skiers blazing the pow and make it your new facebook profile pic - As iiiiF anyone will know the difference when you're back home! Live it up!

The Teton Mountain Lodge and Spa, located at the base of the Jackson Hole Ski Village, sets the standard for Jackson lodging.

Kick-off your stay with Old West decorative charm and witty banter with the Bellmen -- at least one of whom, finds hauling your bags a lighter load than his ski descent of the world famous, Grand Teton, itself! ...and this is just my walk through the lobby! Bad arse!

It's hard to resist a starlit Teton Mountain Range. Perhaps this is best viewed while soaking in the airey and spacious, Roof-top Hot Tub! Get the party started, because there is no guilt in ordering room service and a fine beverage for delivery right to your Seat at the Hot Tub!

After being outside in the snowy and dry weather, ensure time for nurishing. This spa has a superior health conscious attitude, specializing in Vegan and natural products help with systemic conditioning, not just that temporary sparkle to your trip. I recommend taking a test drive with their pedicures or perhaps a 30 minute facial peel -- why not, you're on vacation! The Spa also offers a workout area that includes weight lifting options, abundance of treadmills w/personal tvs, balls, headphones, multiple indoor hot tubs and a large, indoor swimming pool -- kiddos welcome.

Dining

Jackson is so full of danger, even my Pizza fractured.

The VC is located at the base of Jackson Hole Ski Resort, near the Tram. Members of the Jackson Hole Airforce are often spotted here. I drop in here, because I've always got an upfront seat at the bar without much wait (friendly folks), and I'm always entertained by the bartenders -- from pro mountain guides to extreme hunters on their "off" days. Akin to the philosopher and writers seeking great cafes for writing, the skier or rider chooses the "V" to vent skier/rider talk. Untap a cold Rainer beer and immerse yourself in a great ski flick likely to be playing on the mega projection screen.

For breakfast, my root tootin favorite is Bubba's! It looks like they have an eNoRmOuS and fresh salad bar as well, which I haven't yet tried. Great service, love the country tunes and the flair of the Wild West!!

After a high impact day, I also enjoyed dropping in at Teton Mountain Lodge's own, Cascade Restaraunt - ask about the popular, gourmet nachos served "in" and only during Apres. The Cascade had a calm atmosphere from which to unwind, attention to details without any of the pretension.

Scenic Spots

The area is too beautiful not to stop and smell the roses with a simple scenic drive or snowshoe tour.
==
Here's where to go:
National Elk Refuge - Located in the backyard of most locals of Jackson Hole in Summer...oh wait, you're probably looking for the Official one! This is within a five minutes drive from the center of downtown Jackson. You can drive or simply park and get out and walk around -- a host of wildlife to be seen from here - rams, Elk, of course, among others.

Mormon Row- Aim for a couple hours of clear sky, preferably at early morning or sunset time - for the most opportunity to view the Bison and other big game. Additionally, the lighting might be spectacular for your photo ops. The trailhead is approx a 15 minute drive from the town of Jackson. Once you park, sport those cute new snow boots or some snow shoe rentals and take a stroll out to the charming rustic barn. Here, you can snap a beautiful photo op with the magesty of the Grand Teton overlooking. If you keep driving past Mormon Row, you'll also find a nearby quainte little cafe to grab a snack -- Bison and Osprey and all kinds of wildlife are also often viewed from this road.

Walton Farm- For only $100 MM, the Walton Family farm can be yours! Take a drive up the nearby road to greet the handsome, "Gents" (steer), roaming near the hay bails.

Now, don't forget the cowboy hat, pardner, and enjoy your visit to Jackson Hole! Yee haa!

Low-Budget Ideas for Romantic Snowmen

1. Take your Sweetie up to Breckenridge's Horseshoe Bowl - offer to ride the side of the T-Bar that bears the brunt of the wind.

2. On your next Snowy Trek, shovel out a "Snowy Love Seat” made for two. Show her how prepared you are - let her know you've got extra duct tape, just in case she rips her puffy.

3. Surprise her with your advance planning - Poach a friend’s Hot Tub for a Full Moon Night. And, because you are concerned for both safety and compostable materials, whip out that Swiss Army Knife, ready to cut out some apple drinking cups!

4. After a few runs on the hill, compliment her and tell her how much you like Riding with such a Pretty Girl.

5. Give up an episode of Man v. Wild or Late on 8 for a fun movie that she’s picked out. . . er, just ensure you've paid off those library fines with cans of food in advance, so that you can actually check out the DVD on your own card.

6. On a Below 0 degree morning, head outside to start her car and scrape her windows. When you return inside, refrain from telling her how much she should get a Subaru.

7. Suggest an Epic Mix pic of the two of you standing posed inside one another's skis catching a smooch on the hill; proudly share it with all your friends on your Facebook Wall. For extra points, change that status to "In a Relationship".

8. Shave your face to her specifications!

9. Offer to carry her skis to the car. While you're walking, plan a Halloween costume ensemble together. Sure, it's months away, but you aren't afraid to make plans with this girl!

10. And, even though you aren't technically allowed in Canada, you at least ride with her to the border and hitch back yourself. Give her a sweet kiss and hug goodbye as she drives onward to ski the pants off of Alaska, without you.

It's "Big Down there"

claims my Pacific Northwest comrade as she speaks about Big Sky, Montana.

mtns_are_smokin_hot

The "A-Z" mountains is a backcountry area conveniently accessed via Big Sky ski resort.

This is where local Montanan youngsters go to to study their letters, no? Just hike a two foot wide, wind-sucking ridgeline, hinging over multiple sixty foot cliffs, and stomp it! "No problem, lady, " says the 10 year old boy next to me in line at Sky Tram Alpha Omega's docking station. Where is this kid's mother? Seriously.

IMG00076

As host to the First Family (The Obama's back in August 2009), it's no wonder this would be the first place a lifty denied me access due to lack of qualifications

Talk about EGO-BLOW! At Sky Tram Alpha Omega docking station, lifties screen you for a partner, check that you have appropriate backcountry gear (beacon, shovel, probe), and only then, allow two people at a time to ski at fifteen minute intervals (tick tock, no hesitating here). Otherwise, it's sight seeing only and you must leave those awesome skis on Sky Tram Alpha Omega's boarding dock. Even if the lifty agrees that your skis are awesome and asks follow-up questions about exactly how awesome those skis are, he can't be suckered. I tried it.

I was going into outer space in ski boots.

Below is am image from the top of Lone's Peak, where I was above the clouds.

From the top of Lone's Peak, you can also step out onto what I called, The Plank. Realistically, you will see several adventurous baby boomers overlooking skiers and riders from here. It's also where you can let your imagination run wild above the clouds. Here, I had imagined Darth Vader (Extreme Skier Man Extraordinaire) breathing a little akwardly, removing his helmet/goggles (doublecheck - is he still cute...yes!), taking a long stride toward me on the nerve-racking plank, and with a Matthew McConaughey like sauve, he smiles and whips both my skis onto his shoulder.

As though the wind never existed, we then hike off to the Big Couloir, where we make perfect parrell Powder 8 turns for all the Sky Tram Alpha Omega patrons to see.

Big Couloir

A few finds from my conversations with some very friendly, Midwest Meets Big Mountain Montana Locals...

Pack WATER Bottles made of STEELE

These locals are independent, veteran skiers and riders who already know that the cheap, Wal-mart, plastic bladder you carry, will work about as good as your spare tire.

ScissorBills Bar & Grill

Here, you will experience total hospitality, by local owners. I recommend the Chili con Fritos , especially if you were piddling around the A-Z range (no one knows you were just taking pictures - look like you earned it and just dig in). Stick around until it gets dark, and I guarantee, multiple offers to ski the next day from multiple people.

Ladies, don't be fooled by lines, like,"I know where the Grizzlies don't go".

You could find yourself taking a second look at their rugged, wool/plaid shirts, friendly smiles and knowledge for vast lands that surround you. Arm yourself by paying attention to detail... One such example: What did he order for dinner?

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Buck's T-4 Restaraunt

Laden with history, local ambiance, class and great tasting food/wine. I absolutely loved my visit here for dinner the my last night in town. This is locally owned by its second owner who trained and worked for the original owners, Buck and his wife. They started this restaraunt and lodge as a hunter's refuge in the 1940's. Although Buck and his wife has passed away in recent years, the new owner and employees claim Buck still watches over the place with traces of ghost-like experiences. Charming place with a superb wine list and voted as a top ten ski area restaraunt in the USA by some magazines. It's off the beaten path, but if you are a low-budget lodging conisieur like myself, you'll find its conveniently located right next door.

Backcountry Ski - Beehive Basin

Montana seems to exude a greater than average backcountry crowd, with appreciation for learning about the mountains in which they live. There is no questioning that the accountability for yourself and your friends must be as widespread as the sunsets, here. Beehive Basin is a mellow, powderful place, but you are definitely in Grizzly country. Stay alert in Spring or grrr.
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Whitefish, MT: Where Seasons Greetings, Christmas bells and other circa 1980s holiday fashions adorn the main streets

Sure, you could drive to the base of Whitefish Mountain (formerly known as Big Mountain), finding the usual luxury accommodations. However, I recommend a stroll through the center of town where the snow glistened on the front porch's of modest homes, reminiscent of Mayberry street.

DSC02651

"Ski Bum" or "Bro" would not describe any locals that I met here. Whitefish seemed a "second stop" for veteran outdoorsey couples, retreating away from more developed "resort" towns.

One local bike/coffee shop owner is an accomplished ski mountaineer and biker who moved here with his wife after they had originally spent ten years in Jackson Hole together - they wanted to ski more of Canada (5 hours away) and let the grandparents watch the kiddos (now, that is strategy). Another young couple, two snowboarders, were bored by the Denver commuter ski areas and sought to change things up in a more remote area of the Northwest. The other local I met here was a retired competitive downhill skier - he was among the early group to help brand the town to outsiders. He is now living more full time in Palm Springs and comes back to Whitefish for the major events - his only complaint, "lack of sun".

We were experiencing the Pacific Northwest, which was not shy on clouds and overcast skies.

So, amidst the overcast skies, I kept those endorphins high with exhilierating morning boot pack up to Whitefish Mtn.. A favorite along the hike - gaping at the "Ghost" trees. A local told me that the snow-ghosts are the result of rime ice building up around the trees. There is excess build up partly due to less wind - which may otherwise blow the rime ice and snow off the branches.

Ghost Trees in Big Mountain

Skiing Glacier National Forest...Recommended as one of the top 1,000 Places to See Before you Die

"Why seek out this feeling of smallness - delight in it, even? Why leave the comforts...walk for miles with a heavy pack...all to reach a place of rocks and silence...why contimplate with exhilaration rather than despair...a frozen lava of mountains extending into the distance until the peaks dissolve at the edge of a hard blue sky?...One answer is that not everything that is more powerful than us must always be hateful to us. What defies our will can provoke anger and respect, but also arouse awe and respect...We are humiliated by what is powerful and mean but awed by what is powerful and noble. ...Sublime places repeat in grand terms a lesson that ordinary life typically introduces viciously: that the universe is mightier than we are, that we are fail and temporary and have no alternative but to accept limitation on our will....So grandly is it written there that we may come away from such places not crushed but inspired by what lies beyond us, priviledged to be subject to such majestic necessities." The Art of Travel

Elk Mountain, Glacier National Park

As a first timer on the "Glacial scene," I read up on a few basics.

Glaciers are made up of fallen snow - as the snow ages in the same spot long enough, it begins to compress and transform into ice. Glacier National Park straddles the northern USA and Canada, and is considered a reminant of the Last Ice Age. Glaciers are rivers of ice that are constantly slowly moving. This dense, 700 mile forest is consumed with wildlife, including the increasingly extinct, Grizzly bear. A little homework on fatal bear attacks before setting out? "Male, 1987...last seen alive following and photographing a female with cubs at Elk Mountain in Glacier National Park. Investigators recovered film of the female approaching in attack mode at 50 yards..." Really, that's where we're going?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbpIOXaHID0

My guide seemed to enjoy calling out just about every trace of a carnivorous animal he could find.

A mile or so into the forest, I recalled a half-eaten pork sandwich accidentally left in my pack. At about this moment, the guide takes a moment to shout, "look, wolf tracks!". My guide also took fancy in a nearby "animal rub down tree". Like it was some sort of science project, he encouraged me to marvel at the grizzly bear's fur still clinging to it. Unfortunately, this snowplayer takes signs of grizzlies as cue to evacuate the area immediately! Eventually, my guide got the message. From then on out, I was learning about thumper's tracks, flowers and trees. Hence, I proudly display this photo of the enchanting orchid. I chose to leave the grizzly photo ops to National Geographic.

Orchid in Glacier National Park

The night before my trek up Elk Mountain in Glacier National Park, I attended a presentation by a Canadian Ski Mountaineer.

Unlike more mainstream influences, he was not ashamed to say that he sometimes turns back when the risk is too great; he takes pride in being a husdband, and a father of two, and has more to live for than himself. He talked about how he hoped to ski when he's 85, not just until 35. He remarked that knowledge is power in backcountry skiing. Standing in Glacier National Forest, this couldn't be more true - knowledge was a freedom to experience a wilderness that no tram, car, bus, or even bike could fully take a person. And, while appreciating all these freeing experiences, it's still a comfort to have thoughts of loved ones and always return safely home.

In this little write-up, I offer only a sliver of experiences to encounter in this vast forest. I encourage anyone reading to check out more websites and links - your tastebuds will be wet with interest in ALL kinds of things to do. It feels a little under-stated for the magnitude, the history and the sentiment this special place exudes...

As my first travel blog EVER, allow me to introduce why travel invigorates me.

For years, this Kansas girl has wanted to journey freely across the West. Such a journey has meant a chance to feel pioneering; feel my stomach hurt from rounds of laughs; ride horses and ride powder snow; people watch in a culture apart from my own; see exotic landscapes.

Despite the anticipation that comes with travel, it can also be wraught with disappointment and loneliness. So, in type A travel fashion, I have taken steps to hedge the "loneliness on the road" risks:

• Notify several girlfriends in advance, that I am willing to meet their random friends and family members if they will be in the vicinity of my upcoming destinations. If it's a good time, I promise to throwing in a bottle of vino upon my return.
• Email second cousins living in the surrounding target areas - it's time to reconnect!
• Read up on conversation starters at the Continental Breakfasts. So, I see you have a trucker's hat, are you a sports fan?
• Carry my Guidebook and a free local paper into the bar - this will suggest I'm open to talking to people when I otherwise wouldn't be in my hometown.

Approaching my first stop, I realize who my new companions will be for a little while: the front desk clerks, the coffee baristas, the waiters, whatever outdoor guide services I may render, the occassional Joe actually in a mood for conversations with strangers, maybe a random person at the locker room of a rec center where I've paid the visitors' fee, and of course, the retirees I see at the Super 8 free breakfast (with stories about their daughter and what a wonderful life she lives married with kids and a meaningful career).

Tonight, I'm at my recommended Solo Type A budget traveler accommodations: The grand ole Super 8. I get free coffee, free breakfast, internet and never seem to have to verify my Triple A discount rate card.

I am armed with tips from the Moon Handbooks and a mission for feeling a little extra jingle....like a good day of sun and powder snow - you can't help but hollar!